Sizing and lasts

Handsewn shoes run differently from anything welted, and our own lasts run differently from each other. Read this before you pick a number.

Start with your Brannock size

Use your measured Brannock length, not the size printed in your sneakers. Then adjust:

Style	Last	How it runs
Penny loafers, venetians, horsebits	114 / 116	Take a half size down from your Brannock length. Unlined pairs stretch a further quarter size in the first month.
Camp mocs, ranger mocs, driving mocs	2592	True to Brannock length with a normal sock. Size down a half if you wear thin socks.
Boat shoes	2592	True to size. The rawhide lace takes up the rest.
Chukkas and lace-up boots	2592 / 4000	True to size with a mid-weight sock; a half down if you wear thin socks year round.
Bluchers, derbies, longwings	116	A half size down from Brannock. These are the closest thing we make to a dress fit.
Court shoes	Cupsole	True to your sneaker size.

Widths

Most styles are cut in B, D, E and EE. D is our standard. A width is roughly a quarter inch of girth at the ball of the foot, so an EE in the same length is not a longer shoe — it is a rounder one. If you are between, go with the wider width in an unlined shoe and the narrower one in a lined shoe.

Unlined versus lined

An unlined upper is one layer of leather against the foot. It will feel snug for a week and then take the shape of your foot permanently. A lined pair holds its shape longer and stretches less, so buy it in the size that fits on day one.

Still unsure

Call us at (469) 516-6539 or write to hello@kennebechandsewn.shop with your Brannock length, your usual size in a shoe you like, and the style you are looking at. Somebody who has lasted a few thousand pairs will answer.